Something to consider:

Everyone knows about the US tax incentives for buying an EV, but less considered is the incentives for buying an EV charger.

The incentives come in the form of a tax credit, up to the maximum of $7,500/$4,000 or how much you owe in taxes (pre withholdings and the like) whichever is lower. The charger credit is up to $1,000.

So, if your taxes are, say, $3,000, then it doesn’t matter if you bought a new or used EV, you’re only getting $3,000 off your taxes, and your charger credit is effectively worthless.

Consider, if practical, buying your EV towards the end of the tax year, and your charger at the beginning of the next one. You’ll minimize the inconvenience of being locked to level 1 charging speeds, while maximizing your tax credits.

Obviously, if you need a level 2 charger you shouldn’t self sabotage and should just buy one. But if you’re counting your pennies, and think you can get by with level 1 for that window, then it’s something to keep in mind.

  • superweeniehutjrs@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    5
    ·
    10 months ago

    Worth knowing: Many OEM level 1 chargers will work at level 2 (up to 208V/240V, 8-12A). Do your research, your milage may vary.

    The price difference of charging at home verses paid chargers very quickly covers the cost of a charger, even without the tax credit.

    Go for the highest amperage level 2 charger you can reasonably install. For example, even if the car is limited to 7.8kW, the 9.6kW chargers are only a little more expensive and may work out better for your next EV.

    If anyone knows of a level 1 or level 2 charger that can output 6A (lowest in the spec) let me know. That would be convenient for solar.

    • Pretzilla@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      2
      ·
      edit-2
      10 months ago

      I have the Emporia L2 charger and it’s been working perfectly charging at 48A 11.4kW.

      I just checked the settings in the app and you can manually dial it all the way down to 6A.

      It also has automated rates that integrate with load sensors, but I haven’t explored that yet since I’m on flat ToU and full NEM.

      It’s also the cheapest UL rated unit by a long shot last I looked.

      https://amzn.to/3Lnj5cY

      • Wooster@startrek.websiteOP
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        3
        ·
        10 months ago

        I just plugged some numbers into this website. Assuming a Bolt at 20% to 80%, it would take 3 days to charge. As opposed to about 2 with 8 amps.

        But if you’re charging exclusively with solar, and assuming 12 hours of sunlight, it would take 6 days.

        • NotMyOldRedditName@lemmy.world
          link
          fedilink
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          10 months ago

          I think having a way to charge the car off solar panels is going go become part of everyone’s normal emergency kit in the future.

          They keep getting cheaper, portable battery generators are getting cheaper and people are buying them to take camping or keep a fridge going for a short period. It’s like the step between now, and everyone having a grid connected solar/home battery.

          But with a couple portable solar panels and a portable battery, you’ll be able to slowly power your car in an emergency. Might be slow, but it’s better than no gas at all.

      • superweeniehutjrs@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        10 months ago

        I didn’t want to go into too much detail since it’s tangential to EVs, but I have an off-the-grid solar system and have found in the spring and fall, with no A/C on, it would be nice to dump some excess into the car, but at 240V.

        This was all before I signed up for a “free weekend” plan, so the EV charges for <5¢/kWh. I’m still learning how to balance all the variables.