So, my both my JoyCon have a bad drift, and the extra one I got also have the same issue. I am looking for some third party handheld controller for Switch.
Only need it for handheld, since Pro Controller is pretty great and I have no issue with it when playing docked.
I have done some research, but was hoping to get some personal feedback from the lovely people in the community.
So, any recommendations?
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I can’t speak to any third party alternatives, but if you’re at all comfortable with opening up you joycons, for about $20 you can replace the sticks with Gulikit hall effect joysticks. They use magnets instead of conductive pads, so theoretically they will never develop drift. I did the upgrade on mine and they’re great.
@Entropy, do they also feel good? I heard conflicting reports on that part. @slimerancher
I’ve done this swap a lot. So hopefully this helps.
They do feel good. Definitely a little bit different than the original sticks, when they are new they feel tighter / stiffer than even a brand new joycon, but not overly so, they do loosen up a bit over time but are still stiffer overall. The rubber caps feel pretty much indistinguishable to me vs original.
Like the other commenter said, they’re a little stiffer than stock, but they do seem to have a little bit of a break in period. I suppose it’s personal preference, but it isn’t significant enough to bother me at all. Besides, the trade off of never having to worry about drift again is 100% worth it imo.
@Entropy, @MetricIsRight, awesome, thank you both.
I still have a set of spares, but once I’m through those, I’ll get the hall effect ones.
My current gripe is to get the right rail to fit tighter so the right joycon does not lose connection. I’m thinking of adding some teflon. (One of the screws’ heads is too worn out to disassemble fully)
I replaced mine with Hall sensors and then beat Super Mario Bros. Wonder’s final-final level. I had been playing the entire game with pretty severe drift until that, but it began seriously interfering with the precision I needed.
I’m happy with them and may even proactively swap the analog sticks in my pro controller.
Hmm… I am pretty good with opening stuff up, but I generally have trouble closing them back together, at least in a working condition. But I guess if I am ready to give up on my JoyCon, it can be worth a try…
How easy is it to replace them?
Mine took about 15-20 minutes each, just because I was trying to be really careful. There are great kits with hall effect sensors you can get on Amazon, and great videos to watch (also read through comments to learn from people’s mistakes.)
The biggest thing to watch for is the three point screws on the outside case, they strip easily. My kit came with replacement screws FYI.
I used a toothpick to help me lift the locks/stays for the ribbon cables, and to gently ensure they were seated.
I looked up the ifixit video, I think I am going to try to get the pack that has everything builtin. Kinda like what ifixit sells, but for these hall effect ones.
I’m glad you’re deciding to check it out. It’s not too difficult, just a good opportunity to learn and DIY. Good luck with the fix! I would stills echo what I said before, read some comments in the various fix videos out there, there are some real valuable insights there that people document in their own experiences that are good hindsight things to know going in.
Yeah, looking at them. Thanks!
Alternatively, get in touch with Nintendo if you’re in the part of the world where they offer free replacements / fixes. This would be the most cost effective solution.
German here. I had to send mine in four times since buying them, and always got a joke invoice of zero Euro for the repairs/swap. However, they never said they were going to replace them for free, and the poor guy I pestered on the hotline just kept saying I should send them in, as if he was forbidden to make any promises.
Long story short; it can’t hurt to try even when they not openly advertise the free-of-charge repairs.
Yeah, I’m in Canada and had a great experience.
I don’t think they give you back the same Joy-Con though. So if you have a special model, I can understand not wanting to go that route.
Yeah, I’ve sent mine in to get fixed a few times. it’s hit or miss. Once they sent me back one that was scratched. I complained, sent it back, they sent me another one, but it ended up being the same exact one. After all was said and done they ended up sending me a brand new one for all the hassle. Also be aware if you send a special joycon that you may not get that one back.
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I didn’t realize there was a compact version now. I love my pro model. Makes the console large but it’s comfortable and like holding a proper controller.
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My son loves Gengar, he saw that model and is now pestering me to order them right away. 😀
Use wd40 specialist for eletronics and clean your controller. Had drift 4 years ago and after cleaning them with that product never had that issue again.
That is how I have been keeping them going for about last 4-5 years, since they developed drift, but it’s not working anymore.
Oh, that sucks. Now I understand why you want a third party controller.
I use binbok I found on Amazon. They’re a huge upgrade IMO. The joysticks aren’t a trainwreck like the joycons are even before drift, and the shape is much better for handheld use.
Seconding Binbok.
Iirc controllers with drift can be sent to Nintendo for replacement, but you will need some untiltheny cone back.
I put them on my OLED when it had brand new joycons pretty much right away. The joysticks on brand new joycons are still awful.
Hopefully its something they actually fixed with the Switch 2.
The Rz trigger on my binbok is getting mushy. I actually need to look up how to fix that. Hopefully its the spring.
To get around it, I try and play shooter docked with my 8bitdo Pro 2, but with Warframe, if I’m playing on TV, I’ll play the superior looking PSN version, (cross save just got enabled.)
If your looking for Little Sibling joycons, Five Below is selling some halfway decent ones for $15USD. The price is the best feature, but they’re more usable than 16bit era generics.
