This is the exact opposite of my experience. We’ve been using codium in my org and 9/10 times it’s garbage and they will not allow anything that is not on prem. I’m pretty consistently getting recommendations for methods that don’t exist, invalid class names, things that look like the wrong language, etc. To get the recommendations I have to cancel out of auto complete, which is often times much better. It seems like it can make up for someone who doesn’t have good workflows, shortcuts and a premium ide, but otherwise it’s been a waste of time and money.

It’s been a while since I’ve printed but I think both my sidewinder and voron do this. I don’t remember having it after switching to abs. Painted on supports and wider extrusions helped a ton if I remember correctly. Good luck!

At least the song is 🔥

It could be a lot of things. Temperature is a big one, are you letting the bed heat up completely for a consistent amount of time before each print, could heat be impacting your measurements, some things measure different when heated a bit? You probably aren’t printing enclosed, but my voron for example expands upwards almost an entire layer over the first hour of printing. Is there an intermittent air flow that could be impacting how hot your bed really is? Have you verified there is no slop or backlash in your z lead screws and connections? I had decent results on my sidewinder using POM anti backlash nuts. Same for the stability of your measuring tool. Have you checked that it’s not z tilt from turning off the motors between prints?

Honestly if your going to go through all this effort to make this work, and already have a pi, I would suggest instead upgrade the control board to something with extra fan headers, led heads, etc and switch to klipper, there have to be guides out there for your specific printer

Powering the fan from gpio pins probably isn’t going to work out well either, they are 3.3v and 5v. Powering the fan from the PSU is going to be similar to powering a pi off it, I believe you should step the voltage down to what each needs, where the fan is 24v I think the pi is 5v. Your PSU is probably 115 or 220 v. For connectors I would expect to have to redo them yourself with micro fit, molex, jst or w/e you want and can get. On some of mine I just did single pin molex on the pins of the white female connector for fan headers, it doesn’t lock but it works if you don’t have a lot of movement. This page is awesome for connectors info https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/

Per https://help.prusa3d.com/article/xbuddy-and-loveboard-electronics-wiring-mk4_413095 it looks like you dont have any fan headers, you might be able to repurpose the unused ambient sensor header but no clue sorry. You might try splicing off the part or hotend fan? If you really wanted to use the dc input you might need a voltage step down buck converter or something depending on what your PSU is putting out

You might be able to but you really shouldn’t. At the best you wouldn’t have control over fan speed. Find the wiring diagram for the board and use a fan header

Oh hey I kinda helped get this started in a very round about way! Nice to see the fluid integration, maybe if I do the mainsail one, someone else will do it a better way lol. I’ve not been printing much lately but set spoolman up a while ago on the pi running my voron and it’s been great.

I did the dragon HF, my kit came with whatever was before stealthburner and I bought an upgrade kit from 3dwest and went straight to that, so I never used the formbot fans and motor

I built one about a year ago and it’s been great. At that point they didn’t include a lot of the stuff they do now, so my SB/CW2, nevermore, chamber LEDs, etc. were sourced separately and I didn’t use most of what they provided for the hot end

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How are the Spigen case for drops? Is it one type of material or two like the google? I was trying to avoid glass over the camera and just go with a sticker/skin

Magnetic is really important for me, how is that case with drops? I imagine it’s pretty stiff/hard?

Sorry I just realized the way I described everything was actually pretty confusing. After every print I run a clean macro that moves the nozzle up front and heats to 230 and sits there. After about 10 minutes I wipe it then have a clean complete macro to cool down and move it back to the center. Then I start a print and the homing etc is all done at a lower temp, I can’t remember if it’s static or nozzle temp -75c or something

To keep the squish consistent. I assumed it was because the nozzle is expanding more at higher temps but it could just expansion differences in the material or something else I guess. My start up script is homing at nozzle temp - 75c or something like that, most people with a brush just do the home at temp so there is no change. And yeah I forget about it sometimes too 😂

I’m not brave enough for the brush, I’ve considered trying out a toothbrush but my current process is just let the nozzle sit at temp for 15 minutes between prints and then wipe with a paper towel. I don’t z home at full temp, I have different offsets for the temps I do pla and abs at

So far I love it. I’m maybe 60/40 or 50/50 external to internal. I don’t use a lot of apps though, I mostly stick with doing things through the browser which doesn’t have a lot of issues using up the screen. When I do use the internal screen, it tends to be two apps at once, like podcast player and workout tracker, etc, so again no wasted space. My biggest gripe is the home screens and the taskbar. I had to switch to the Android 14 beta to fix the task bar with third party launchers. The pixel launcher forces too much google down your throat and you can’t have distinct layouts for the external home and internal. I’ve settled on total launcher for now but it has its own minor set of issues. 14 seems to have fixed lot but odd stuff, like the pixel launcher, seem to be missing options foldable wise.

For what it is worth I’ve been trying to get a warranty replacement from WD for almost 3 months now. They sent me the wrong drive and have been dragging their feet on getting me the correct one, will never purchase anything WD again

I’ve had under extrusion, caused by too high speed or pressure advance settings look like this, does it show up if you slow down?