Wow so shiny. Is that a 3D printed spacer? Did you put it in front of the glass lens?
Wow so shiny. Is that a 3D printed spacer? Did you put it in front of the glass lens?
Yes and no. While you can use the aux in all the strobes with the latest firmware, there are still only 2 brightness levels (a hardware limitation), and not all of them work like you would expect.
At the moment:
Yes I have installed the new multi-channel branch on all my TS10s. I suppose if you want to use the aux as a channel then you could prefer it to be brighter.
For myself, my aux leds are in high mode when in standby, and go to low mode when auto-lockout kicks in.
I use two pairs of vice grip pliers, one on the head and one on the bezel, with some leather to protect the finish. Heating the bezel up by dipping it in some freshly boiled water should make it easier.
Using this method I have removed many bezels (TS10/SP10 Pro/FW1A Pro) uneventfully. Removing the tail is another story though, because the leather just keeps slipping on the smooth parts of the tube/tail.
Perfect soldering as expected. I can’t help it but my OCD has made me notice that you have the red and blue wires swapped on the aux board, not that it matters in this light.
Also is that moonlight level? The lowest few levels acted weird before you disabled dynamic underclocking. I have been doing some experiments myself, with dynamic unclocking enabled and disabled. I ended up making a new smoother ramp while keeping it enabled.
Btw, what happened to your anduril2 fork? It is no longer visible on GitHub, did you make it private?
I am looking into sourcing some of these RGB leds to try, and discovered that there is an even smaller model available.
B36S3RGB is 0.69 x 0.69mm. These are the ones you are using.
While
B36L3RGB is 0.65 x 0.65mm. Have you thought about using these?
I have not studied the datasheets in detail but from a quick glance, apart from the size, they seem to be identical otherwise.
Awesome! Do you think if I can fit these RGB leds under an original FW1A reflector with the smaller opening (not the crappy FW1A Pro reflector)? If I can eventually find one that is.
I think it is a good choice, even if you just use the crappy reflector from the FW1A Pro. I played around with that reflector very briefly and just raising that reflector a little bit will tighten up the beam from the Yinding.
I just need to have aux though, so I won’t be using a reflector.
I haven’t seen one of those, does it look like the original FET+7+1 driver otherwise, do you have a photo you can show us?
When I ordered my FW1A Pros, I asked the guy on the aliexpress store to show me a picture of the driver before I placed the order, in case they are still shipping FET+1 drivers.
Thanks man! When this mod is complete, the light will have your T1616 adapter inside of it.
From reading the Yinding thread over at BLF, there seems to be quite a large variation in tint measurements, both positive and negative duv. Someone measured a duv of -0.0067, so I guess I won the tint lottery.
Looks good, I found that pink gives a little bit of fluorescence vibe like UV when you shine it on colourful objects.
And it looks like everybody’s photos are in the wrong orientation. About half the photos in my last post (my first Lemmy post) were anyway.
@TacGriz I saw that you were looking for a throwy TIR for your FW1A, how about an aspheric lens? My mod is in progress but I think it looks quite promising. From preliminary testing, the beam is nice and round with the round-die emitter. But the emitter is magnified so clearly such that the uneveness in the phosphor can be seen on a white wall. Though it won’t be seen when used as a thrower in real life.
Impressive!