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We call it the firestarter 3000
I mean, I’m sure the device itself is built like shit and a fire hazard that way but just plugging too much stuff in will (ideally) throw a breaker before it starts a fire. It’s what the breakers are there for, after all. Before anybody says anything about it, yes an individual outlet can take the whole load of the circuit, precisely because of silly shit like this.
Well, kind of. Most normal outlets in the US are 15a on 20a circuits. But the circuit’s running load is only supposed to be 75% of the breaker’s rating. So in practice, yeah basically you can pull 15a at 120V through a single outlet if you need to.
18 amps effectively, at least for a period of time. Don’t do that, but yeah they are overbuilt a little.
I’ve always read that you can do 100% of the capacity as “surge” (I haven’t read a definition, but I think it’s no more than 3-5 seconds) and 80% the rest of the time.
So your clothes dryer can start the heating element and turn on the motor at the same time and use the whole 30 amp outlet it’s plugged into if it wants to because the power will go down once the drum is up to speed. From there, the power might go down further once it’s up to temperature. If you’re charging your car on that same outlet, though, it needs to be limited to 24 amps because it’ll be using that the whole time.
It gets weird, though, with 15/20 amp, though. Technically, if it’s a 15amp outlet, you should only use 12 amps continuously. However, a lot of the time everything except the outlet is specced for 20amps. In that situation, you should still follow the same rules, but it’s more forgiving.
What breakers are there to protect is the cable in your wall.
The cable should be rated to run at 100% load continuously (with some safety factor for running a little more); depending on the breaker rating and curve (usually C curve in New Zealand for domestic).
So a C20 breaker can supply 120A for 1s before protecting the circuit; this allows for starting motors.
Now a breaker is different from an RCD which measures the difference between the phase and neutral lines. If the difference is too high the circuit trips. This is to protect the fleshy thing holding the knife in the toaster.
In America, they always say that continuous loads should run at 80%. That’s why circuit breakers are specced at 15/20/30/40/50/60 amp but the EVSE is specced at 12/16/24/32/40/48 amp.
Aye. US NEC says 80% is safe carrying capacity. There is an expectation there will be surges or dirty power that might take it a little
That is probably good practice.
But your cable SHOULD be rated to run at 100% continuously, if it is not, then the rating is wrong.
It actually looks like a skyscraper with sad faces looking out of the window :(
Saved me money in flints and steel… did not save me money in housing… 3 stars
dorm, gaming room, fire.
Hmmmmmm. One those is more likely to happen then the rest.
Surprisingly appropriate use of “then”
Grammatical whiplash.
Dorm > gaming room > fire
Hmmmmm, did you have a stroke whilst typing that?
That last part just saying Fire is the funniest part
Everyone’s laughing at the fire hazard, but I would unironically buy this if it was a power strip and not a surge protector because I’m already basically doing this with four separate power strips into a single uninterruptible power supply for all of my retro video game consoles, modem, router, roku, and my television. The trick is basically nothing is ever on at any given time so right now the current output is only 36 watts.
You labeled like, 3 things. I’m gonna be sick.
The only label I can see just says “Scart” (oh, and wifi I guess)
SCART is a european (french, technically) audio/video connector and standard. It’s sort of like composite/component video in the US, except it’s far better, so retro game enthusiasts love it.
Hah! It’s a rats nest that I basically dumped back there the last time I moved and the labels are from a long time ago before I had most of the stuff. It’s not like you get a new retro console every day so I’m almost never back there. That’s kind of the whole point. I plug everything in one time and then I don’t touch it until I move.
You’re killing me, Jessica
I have the 22 port, actual, real version of this. It’s leveled up my cable organization game.
Unfortunately these high capacity power strips always have surge protector functionality in them, and it’s a very bad idea to daisy-chain surge protectors because they can interrupt each other trying to stop the current and all of your stuff will get fried.
Power strips are fine as long as you aren’t exceeding the maximum load, but they never come with as many plugs so that’s how I ended up with four different power strips and some 1 foot extension cords for all those damn wall warts.
All of that is going into the handful of battery backup plugs on the uninterruptible power supply so if I’m ever playing a retro game and the power goes out, I don’t lose my progress! You know how evil games used to be; half the time you can’t even save the damn game lol
I haven’t done an analysis of my power strip / surge protector layout, but my gaming system is just plugged into a UPS with six ports.
The 22 port one is for my server closet. I’d love to show you, but for some reason my client won’t allow me to upload photos.
What in the living hell is this?
Okay, I’m actually onboard with those things. It’s usually a cable with a single wall plug on one end and four C13 plugs at the other. So you could plug in two monitors, a desktop PC and a printer, say, with just one socket. They’re a lot neater than having a whole power strip and four cables. I’ve also seen ones that split one C14 into four C13s but I’m not as sure how I feel about those.
Ah yes, for my 66… 13w? Devices.
I guess a bunch of LED strings and maybe a phone charger (low-speed 5v 3a only).
Edit: also, what is 12-14 usb charging ports? You’re not sure how many there are? Does it vary from package to package?
The 12-14 USB ports is my favorite part, like they couldn’t be bothered to count, or it varies.
I love how the cord is only 6" long, so you’ve either got to bolt this monstrosity to the wall immediately beside the outlet, or plug it into another extension…
I’d expect this to be used in a factory for product testing, where they probably have sockets on the bench
It also has 71 outlets instead of 66 lol
I might not understand 😅 Or I may have miscounted something. But in the middle there are 5 sockets in a row, there are 10 rows, on each side there are 8 sockets. That does seem to add up to 66 to me. What am I missing?
Lmao I had apparently counted 11 rows instead of 10. Whoops
I’m guessing it varies based on whatever components they had available when they ran that batch on the assembly line?
And, there’s not 66 sockets either
😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮
Sega Genesis owners: “At last…”
Behold, my final form:
Is this going to get bigger every time it’s reposted?
This is almost real.
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERDANNY-Protector-Outlets-Charging-Extension/dp/B08Z2ZKVXX
Now that I know this, uh, I might be about to buy one.
I own one. They’re fantastic; you just have to realize what you have. You can’t plug in a computer, three laptops, two monitors, and a space heater.
Most of the stuff I’m plugging in is a few watts.
Yeah, this is a solver for the oodles and oodles of devices that all insist on using their own dedicated 5v wall wart.
Space heater 1500W, PC 500W, 3 laptops 360W, 2 monitors 100W = 2460W
With our superior european 230V outlets you can in fact easily plug all that into one power bar :D
We have 220V here too, just not a lot of receptacles or options on power strips :)
I have a 220v 50A in my garage, clothes dryer and Oven.
You sure it’s 50A? I thought it was usually 30.
Yup. 50A for level 3 chargers and welders. Oven might be 30, but i know the garage is a 50a circuit.
I don’t know enough about electricity. Electrician told me I have 3 phase 400v and it wasn’t common. Not sure what that means or what benefit it gives me.
It just means that you can run industrial gear; maybe was owned by a keen potter previously. Big kilns need 3 phase power. No it isn’t common for domestic, but I have a few friends with big shed that have 3 phase power for machining tools.
Depending on what capacity the supply has; e.g. if you have a smallish 80A supply you can run a a good sized CNC mill in you shed.
Three phase is useful for industrial motors or if you need more than 200A service. If I wanted to add another car charger in my garage and use them at the same time, they would have had to bring in another phase.
Your electric kettles boil so fast. I am quite envious.
You can’t plug in a computer, three laptops, two monitors, and a space heater.
👀
What about a desktop, two laptops, speakers, a printer, four monitors, and some networking equipment? Asking for… Myself. I’m asking for myself.
The box says 15 amps. I think 15 might be pushing it at a bit.
Just start adding up all the input amps and see what it comes to. If it’s not Enterprise Network gere and a laser printer you have a solid chance.
I’d do some research if I were you. I don’t like plugging anything into a surge protector without a solid warranty that covers equipment damage and I’ve never heard of SUPERDANNY…
I don’t consider anything like this a “surge protector,” just a power strip.
Any equipment I actually give a rat’s ass about in that respect is connected to a UPS anyhow.
Not worth the risk IMO but to each their own. I had a cheap surge strip melt so I’m particularly paranoid (thankfully I was at my desk when it happened)
I’ve actually heard of SUPERDANNY before. I’ve seen their products for sale on Newegg before.
You would be a SUPERDANNY fan…
The name stuck in my mind haha
It doesn’t work like that
In SUPERDANNY we trust
He’s like regular Danny, only more super.
Still a lot of outlets
2100 Joules? does it self destruct after 1.12 seconds at rated capacity?
Surge protection capacity
Yeah that makes sense lmao
I don’t know… Tripp Lite (no affiliation) surge strips insure equipment you plug into them. For life…
Yeah, they all say that. And then when you try to claim it they have a million clauses in their fine print that allows them to weasel out of it.
Did you register to your equipment with them when you plugged it in? Do you still have your receipts? Did you use an extension cord anywhere in your power path at all? Did you know they only provide “current pro rata market value” for everything, which means their math makes all your computers worthless after they’re a week old? Can you prove it was actually a power surge and not some other occurrence that took out your device? Etc., etc., etc.
Never trust your equipment to one of those guarantees.
Well since college dorms ban portable heaters, I guess this will have to do… 🤷♂️
Men only want one thing…
and it’s dangerous as fuck.
It’s only dangerous if the total Amp draw exceeds the cable limit.
I could fill this pretty easily and not break 10A
“Your cat will love the ambient heat it gives off even when nothing is plugged in.”
And that one fat bastard plug will still cover 9 ports around it.
Can I get the male/male suicide cable and plug it into itself?
